Fashion, Consumption and Everyday Culture in the Soviet Union between 1945 and 1985

Fashion, Consumption and Everyday Culture in the Soviet Union between 1945 and 1985

Slavonic Department of the University of Salzburg; Univ.Prof.Dr. Eva Hausbacher, Dr. Elena Huber, Mag. Julia Hargassner
Slavonic Department of the University of Salzburg
Vom - Bis
24.10.2013 - 26.10.2013
Elena Huber

In the middle of the 1950's, a turning point in political and social norms can be witnessed in Soviet consumption trends. The conference focuses on the role of these trends in promoting tensions between individually made clothes (at home or by a tailor) on the one hand, and the state propagated dress code on the other, as well as on the resulting impact on the relationship between the individual and the state. This opens new perspectives for the analysis of social, economic and political developments in the late Soviet Union, and how these developments relate to the (de)stabilisation of Soviet ruling structures. The conference also aims to uncover new facets of everyday Soviet life to illustrate the behaviour patterns of Soviet citizens (individual appropriation and demarcation processes) and to consider how these manifest in both individual longings and needs and wider consumption trends.

Central questions discussed at the conference are: What specific features are recognizable in Soviet clothing fashion between the post-war period and perestroika? What, if any, “western” trends can be observed? What were the driving forces (i.e.: political, economic, ideological or cultural circumstances) that contributed to these developments? What was the effect of individual production of clothing on the identity of the Soviet woman? What role did this play in the transformation of social norms?


Thursday, 24 October
Begin: 9.30: Reception
10.15: Welcome by
Univ.-Prof. Dr. Ingrid Paus-Hasebrink
(Dean of the Faculty of Cultural & Social Sciences)
Opening speech

Fashion/Consumption/Everyday Culture
Chair: Elena Huber
10.45 – 11.30: Larissa Zakharova (Paris)
“Soviet Fashion in the 1950s - 1960s: the Contradictions of the Thaw”
11.30 – 12.15: Ulrike Goldschweer (Bochum)
“Konsumkultur und Nostalgie. Artefakte als Medium der Erinnerungskultur im russischen Internet (am Beispiel von Kleidung und Mode)”
12.15 – 13.00: Anna Tikhomirova (Bielefeld)
“Consumption of East German Clothing by Soviet Women in the Brezhnev Era: Reflections on Transfer and Comparison of Fashion Cultures in the USSR and the GDR”

13.00 – 14.30: lunch break

Fashion/Consumption/Everyday Culture
Chair: Elena Huber / Julia Hargassner
14.30 – 15.15: Irina Muchina (Worcester)
“From Rags to Riches? Port Cities and Consumerism of the Soviet 1970s and 1980s”
15.15 – 16.00: Mila Oiva (Turku)
“Soviet Consumers in the Eyes of the Polish Clothing Exporters, 1956 - 1982”

coffee break

16.30 – 17.15: Olga Gurova (Helsinki)
“How the Concept of Consumption in the Former Socialist State of Russia has Changed? 'Congealed', 'Fast' and 'Slow' Fashion”

17.15 – 18.00: Katharina Klingseis (Vienna)
“´This many-sided world of fashion´: A text of its time”

joint dinner

th Friday, 25 October

Chair: Eva Hausbacher
9.00 – 9.45: Christine Engel (Innsbruck)
“Пижоны, стиляги, чувихи, попугаи... Spiele der Differenz in der Jeans Prosa”
9.45 – 10.30: Olga Caspers (Salzburg)
“Der Dichter zieht an. Limonov als Schneidermeister der sowjetischen Subkulturen”

coffee break

11.00 – 11.45: Julia Hargassner (Salzburg)
“Нейлоновая война и ее проявления в советском литературном дискурсе 1960х годов”
11.45 – 12.30: Natalia Starostina (Young Harris) /
Elena Troubitsyna (Turku)
“New Clothes, New Life: Fashion in Shaping a Soviet Identity in the Late 1970s - early 1980s”

12.30 – 14.00: lunch break

Chair: Eva Hausbacher
14.00 – 14.45: Kateryna Novikova (Warsaw)
“Differentiation, Imitation and Invention: Dress and Clothing Styles in the Soviet Movies of the 1960s - 1980s”
14.45 – 15.30: Oksana Bulgakowa (Mainz)
“Factory of Gestures”

coffee break

Individual Production

Chair: Julia Hargassner
15.45 – 16.30 Elena Huber (Salzburg) “Что нужно для счастья? Эстетическая инсценировка женских будней в советских журналах и книгах по домоводству 1950 - 1960х годов”
16.30 – 17.15: Olga Smolyak (Perm)
“The Embroidery of National Identity: Self-Made Clothes in the Discourse on Folk Craft Renaissance”
17.15 – 18.00: Anna Ivanova (Moscow)
“Tsekhoviki: Underground Production of Clothes in the USSR (1950s - 1980s)”

18.30: Walk through Salzburg

th Saturday, 26 October

Fashion / Beauty / Performance
Chair: Elena Huber
9.00 – 9.45: Djurdja Bartlett (London) “Myth and Reality: Five year Plans and Socialist Fashion”
9.45 – 10.30: Yulia Gradskova (Stockholm)
“Making Yourself Beautiful? Everyday Life and Beauty Practices in Soviet Russia in 1950s - 1960s”

coffee break

11.00 – 11.45: Linor Goralik (Moscow)
“Red Devils and White Rabbits: Identity, Compliance and Rebellion in The Late Soviet Masquerade Costumes”
11.45 – 12.30: concluding discussion


Julia Hargassner
Slavonic Department of the University of Salzburg, rd Erzabt-Klotzstr. 1, Room: HS 3.409, 3 floor

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